Hello,
Kirghyzistan, it was already there a little while. I begin my message during my days in Bishkek. 2 days ago, I was about to finish (last sentence), when I lost everything I'm not sure how ... So I start!
The arrival in Naryn early evening, after the pass of Torugart between China and Kirghyzistan do not let us see much of this small city. We have been filed in the CBT (Community Based Tourism) for us to find an accommodation for the night. Item Kirghyzistan very positive. There are very few hotels, but many "Homestay Bed & Breakfast". Therefore, we were greeted in an apartment in a building of the Soviet era. Much the only image we had сette city, a city of the 80 Soviet. But eager to ride after this long break has Kaxgar, we left the next morning without taking more time to discover this small city. Before leaving, we had a good breakfast: black tea, meal, fresh bread with butter and homemade raspberry and cassis. Mmm! Welcome to Kirghyzistan!
We were informed of road conditions: tarmac, but for the majority in very bad condition. We did not consider the consequences with our bikes and especially our trailers. Very tiring, very slow. In addition, if you look at the terrain of the country, it is that mountain! We never could have done more than 65 kms in the day. But this fatigue on the road was largely offset by the scenery. Beautiful at all times. Since the beginning of our journey, is the country that fills me most because of its beauty. Number one choice for your next vacation! A plane ticket, and hop, the cost of living is very low. Well for us, but not for Kirghyzes. The average monthly salary is 300 U.S. $ to Bishkek and half elsewhere. Difficult with AC set money aside for travel. Going back to B & B, a CBT office in this city may receive tourists can penetrate into the culture kirghyze, to be in direct contact with families. We have always been satisfied with the receptions in the B & B. All travel needs are: comfortable room, hot shower, breakfast, possibility of washing. If you do not want to go out to dinner, the family may also prepare us dinner, a great way to savor the local cuisine. All this is also an excellent means of support and development for them, through sightseeing including (horseback riding, night in a yurt). Ecotourism is 100%. It should apply elsewhere.
We put a little over 2 days to get a Kochkor. This included the pass of 3030m Dolon was on a piece of unpaved road, a short but major difficulties. With a slight effect of altitude, I often stop. Rupert ride my bike for the last 500m. The trailer makes a huge difference. This confirms the fact that we would not do the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan, one by which many cyclists go by. And even no roads in Tajikistan since this is a country of mountains and unpaved roads in good or bad condition. We also really enjoyed our 3 nights camping. The last was in those in the Chinese desert, the heat and mosquitoes. Here, nothing to see - the freshness, the mountains, a river to give us water, green grass. I love it. We have passed several small villages or grocery shelves were pretty empty. There was always the cons by vodka available. We also saw many nomadic (or semi-nomadic because they do not stay the winter), their yurts and their herds of horses. So for part of the country. We arrived in the small town of Kochkor, 2nd town after Naryn since we entered the country. The main street, the market, we find it alive, but only over a short period of the day in the morning. At night, the nightfall, there more one outside. We also find everything you wanted in the grocery store, no matter how small. These are products that are well used to it: pasta, tomato sauce, butter, cheese, cans of corn and tuna, and above it is also the return of chocolate! We have been welcomed into another B & B. It was a Friday evening and the woman was not sure we want to accommodate. In fact, it was up to us to make the decision. She received a large number of guests for the evening breaks the fast during Ramadan. She told us about a party. Until he was asked what time and when we replied 22h, it was accepted without hesitation. She spent the afternoon after the tables and prepare a meal. Everything was wonderful. To our surprise, when we come home from the restaurant at 20:30, it was very quiet in the house. There were fifteen men and even women. Our host, dressed "normally" during the day, had put a long skirt and had covered his head with a scarf. The women ate in the dining room on a very long table and men in another room on mats and cushions on the floor. Everyone was talking but very quietly. The "party" does not bother us at all. Of the entrance to the country, it was found that people were Kirghyzes breaks calm, maybe even a little reserved, but at the same time warm. During our first 2 days, the people we spontaneously said hello, especially children who we shouted "hello", we whizzed away, or stopped us on the road just to shake our hands.
So it was two days of cycling very pleasant, but too short because we had to make a return trip to Bishkek to our Uzbek visa which takes 10 working days has to be treated. We left our bikes at the B & B Kochkor. The bus system is very poorly developed here. What works, what are the mini-bus "marshrutka" and shared taxis. So we shared a taxi with five other passengers to go to Bishkek. When we were deposited not far from downtown, toward the hostel, I did not think we had reached the capital. A grand avenue of trees and small houses made me think that we were still in a small town on the outskirts of the capital. But no! No big shopping center, not a car salesman, no industrial hub before arriving in town. Able to "talk kirghyze", "salam", "rakmat" I was surprised to find that Bishkek, we speak Russian. The Kirghyzes Kirghyzes learn Russian at school and speak, but Kirghyzes Russians speak Russian and that's all. Only during the recent adoption of the new constitution that Kirghyze (resembling the Turkish language) became the first official state language. While I had seen mostly Kirghyzes type Chinoi Mongol-Turk, often Muslims, Bishkek, there are many Kirghyzes type Russian. What a contrast: white skin, blue eyes, blond women false (bleached hair), clothes tighter, tall and thin women. Since 1989, over 200 000 Kirghyzes Russians left the country with only 90,000 in 1993. They currently represent 10% of the population. They live mainly in Bishkek, Karakol has also, in some villages completely around Issyk Kul Russian, and more generally in the north. They are Orthodox Christians. I visited the churches of Bishkek and Karakol. The celebration of independence on 31 August in Bishkek was rather quiet. I find Kirghyzes rather nonchalantly, with little impetus to nationalism. We did not attend special events, there were cons by many games and activities for children. It looked like a simple day off. Looks like Kirghyzes, at least in Bishkek, feel a certain nostalgia for the Russian period. Their town did not seem to have changed since the Russians left. I think they were not ready to be independent, and did not really win something this. Even 20 years later they are still seeking their way. They are first in search of an identity kirghyze. The country seems to be stagnating ...
We spent two days in Bishkek and we will return to resume Kochkor our bikes. While waiting for our visas Uzbek, could not really get away Bishkek and not from the south to Uzbekistan. We decided to go to Lake Issyk Kul. So we spent 3 more nights of camping at the lake, including 2 on the beach with swimming included. What could be better? The road south side of the lake along the coast. There are many quiet beaches undeveloped. The scenery is still beautiful because we follow the same time the Tian Shan mountain range, very green on that side. Arrived in Karakol, at the east end of the lake, we had the choice to continue to tour the north, but very fast to arrive in time to Bishkek to get our visas, or take the time to make the trek around Karakol and then go by bus to Bishkek. We opted for the second option. The northern route passes does not as close to the lake to the south so there is no real beach apart around the "resort Kazak" Colpon of Ata. Since Karakol, we went to the hamlet of Altyn Arashan known for his hot springs. It is a hike of 14 miles to get there, we are mounted in a jeep ... An old Russian jeep can climb the narrow paths. Climb up with all this at Oceanne in the back would have been very laborious. Arriving in the midst of these mountains was magnificent. Unfortunately, autumn has arrived while we were there. The clouds and rain arrived in the after-noon. It was bathing in a hot spring "turtle" roofed cement. What's better than being in hot water while watching the rain come down and hear the water from the river nearby sink? Oceanne more pirs this as a small paddling pool. The relaxing effect of a hot spring has not been very much! We then soup cottage where we spent the night. It is run by Valentine, of Ukrainian parents, was deported by Stalin Karakol. Valentine thank him for being born here! ... The next day we tried a small hike. But time was not room for improvement, so we came down, walk away this time to return to Karakol. Fall is also lower reaches. Sunny days but very cool evenings. We spent our last day at the beach next to Karakol. Oceanne took a full half-day to play in the water and sand, something new to her that she fully appreciated - especially swimming. As I said previously, the system bus is not so developed. But Karakol-Bishkek, there is a line that allowed us to easily put everything in Soutter. There has been cons 8am to 400 km! He stopped everywhere or shared taxis and mini-buses do not stopped. In Bishkek, he filed almost people at home!
The day after our arrival in Bishkek, we set to work - extension of visa for me and Oceanne and purchase of air ticket for Rupert. Given that Rupert would wait 4 days in Bishkek, we had to have the right to stay longer than expected to Kirghyzistan. And yes, go hop a little trip to London England for Rupert. A chance that the error is human! He left for a new passport. In Montreal, before our departure, he thought he would have enough pages for all visas. In England, he forgets. Then at the Istanbul consulate and the embassy in Beijing, he would not believe the response. There are some offices that can make passports, with a new chip inside. In Beijing, the closest was in Hong Kong and now the closest to Moscow. Necessary to send his passport to the said office and wait for 5 weeks. 5 weeks without a passport said 5 weeks without travel. In London, the passport is made in 24 hours! Rupert was going to use his last page of the passport for visa Uzbek. He needed the visa pages of Turkmenistan, Iran, and Armenia. Several times he took off visas for travel on pages already buffered. But this was no longer possible. The other alternative was to fly direct to Turkey ... 3 tickets were more expensive not to mention the stories of cycling and overweight baggage that has been to Beijing. And we really wanted to cross the country. Or a direct flight home ... Oh no! So the next day, we all went to get our visas to Uzbek valid from 20 September. We celebrated it in a German brewery friendly gents ties Bishkek and located in a residential area of middle class, or maybe less. Ambiance, but the beer was good ! Rupert then left overnight and I spent four days with a Oceanne enjoy the city and its many parks, because only a small dose Oceanne was partly sick. 2nd time travel just is not too bad! Because of all these trees, all parks in the city, all buildings of the Soviet era are completely camouflaged. In any case in summer, this gives a very pleasant atmosphere to the city. The contact with children Oceanne kirghyzes was very different from the one with Chinese children. She approached them and they moved away from her. They were indifferent to his presence. We have a walking tour in Bishkek, immense. In addition to the building as such, there is a maze of narrow streets created by all the merchants around. The streets are covered with tarps, so even in the rain, everything stays dry. I find this bazaar quiet, calm, even if the crowd was present, representation of the character kirghyze perhaps. We also visit the Orthodox church. I was asked to cover my hair with a headscarf. This is not only in mosques that this is necessary. By cons here are almost exclusively women who come to pray. The mosques are increasingly nombeuses Kirghyzistan at all topped with a silver dome, and all fairly new. As a people in search of an identity, the Kirgyzes become Muslims as their neighbors in Central Asia. Immediately
Rupert returned from London with his new passport, as soon we left Bishkek to join Uzbekistan. Visa, 30 days, have dates of validity. We lost 10 days of visa kirghyze staying longer in China. We did not do the same thing for Uzbekistan. Especially since as Bishkek, we had to go to our visa Toshkent Turkmensitan and Iran. And the signs of the campaign for presidential elections of October 10 came out more. It was too late for us to stay by. Since the events of Osh in May, the borders between Uzbekistan and Kirghyzistan are closed. I think the countries expecting a return to stability. It remains all the same 2 points of movement for tourists. Toshkent, but since Kirghyzistan must transit through Kazakhstan, and Osh. Bishkek-Osh back to cross the entire country from north to south through the mountains. Impossible for us to do so by bicycle with the time we left, we took a taxi shared among us, since with only bicycles and company, we could not share the taxi. Friend or acquaintance of our host in Bishkek, the taxi driver took the time to spend with a friend to install a rack on her roof to carry our gear, go home to add jam and another in his chest, go to the grocery store, and finally to the gas station. We do not leave until 15h. 10 of road more breaks, we arrived at 2am to Osh. The road between Bishkek and Osh is in excellent condition (the only country), because she wants to be closer link between the two regions. It's a beautiful road in the mountains, land nomads. There are yurts, horses for sale kumys at the roadside. Fermented mare's milk, it is the national drink which we do not have the opportunity to taste. We have not has not provided the evidence and other tourists we were not encouraged to taste. The Kirghyzes generally run very fast. Our driver did not hesitate to make a peak 140 km / h and has to race against other motorists to keep awake. Rupert and I have not really closes the eye. We hate to come ... 2am. Checkpoint at the entrance of the city. Rupert to claim 50 Soms by the police for what is carried on the roof. It will be seen later as U.S. $ 50 disappeared from the portfolio of Rupert and my little recorder disappeared into the car. I recorded the journey of music from the radio. Too bad for your gift Alice and Julian ... All that is lost or when the taxi driver? ... Then a great avenue of houses burned. Even at night, it hurts heart. We phoned our breakfast earlier in the evening. We waited. This is a hostel in an apartment a block from the Soviet era. "Osh Guesthouse" highly recommended. The owner of the apartment is Kirghyze-Kirghyze and whoever manages the hostel is Kirghyze-Uzbek, strain, before Stalin, before 1950. At 2am, they helped us a while to get into the apartment. Really helpful. It was appreciated at that hour. We spent our last day in Osh has Kirghyzistan and was really appreciated.
Osh, the Kirghyzes, Uzbeks, Tajiks, Turkmens are the subject of another message. The complexity of the peoples of Central Asia makes me think of that discovery in the Balkans for countries of the former Yugoslavia. Countries rich in history.
We leave tomorrow Buxoro or we just spent 2 days to leave Uzbekistan. Our crossing in 5 days of Turkmenistan does not leave the place probably has the internet. And in Iran, I write may not be too detailed emails.
I apologize to all who write me emails сeux and who I do not answer. I love your posts. The recent requests for visas and travel by public transport took all my time and energy. You can still continue to write me and I will reply when I can:)
Dorothee
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