Salam,
L'Iran - que de choses a dire. Le seul pays ou je n'ai pas bien dormi pendant un mois car je n'arrivais pas a liberer my mind of what I saw and lived during the day. In hindsight, what really nothing to prevent sleep and yet at the moment, my sensitive side took over. It was also a country where we had high expectations because many tourists we were talking very positively. Unfortunately I have not found the enthusiasm I expected from my discomfort in the Iranian society. But this remains a country that deserves to be visited, at least to remove the prejudices that Western society can have.
First, to be clear, wearing a "chador" (which means trying fa - it is aptly named!) Is absolutely mandatory in Iran. Only wearing "hejab" the east. The hejab is to cover their hair, or by a "maqna'e" that resembles the hood of the nuns, either a scarf or a scarf that covers most of the time that half of the head. The "hejab" also wear long sleeves and long trousers and not too tight. And cover his ass! In fact, everything that should hide the physical appearance of women. So generally, women wear a coat or shirt-ceintrees tunics that go just below the bottom of the buttocks. Women wearing the chador are the most conservative to the point of covering the mouth while holding the chador in the teeth if they have taken hands. They wear it to hide from men of course.
I'll always remember the words of our host has Mashhad, Vali. "She loves it," he says, speaking of his wife and the chador. He is married to a woman much more conservative as it can be. He prays when he has time ... They spent 2 years in Switzerland. Vali is a merchant and restoration of carpets. He opened his home and more a "guesthouse". While living in Switzerland, and Vali began to shake hands with women and go out to bars, his wife told him that it was time to return to Iran ... not to risk a divorce. Apparently only 80% of Iranian couples eventually divorce emigrate. In conservative families, men are at least 10 years older than their wives. They need the time to have found work to support the needs of the future family before finding a woman. And for the woman, she is young for it to have chosen all the energy to raise the many children to come. Vali We have never talked politics or religion. Regularly receiving tourists, it must also be heavily monitored. So it does not address these issues. By cons, it was found one morning a little rebellion. He would like his women working (he has 2 children, a boy and a girl, the two university students). His wife works at home as it is she who prepares meals for tourists. It is also she who manages the money. By cons, it never goes grocery shopping. All businesses are required by men. To not be in contact with them, women are conservative to the grocery store man. In Mashhad, it was very common to the point that I myself was not comfortable entering a business alone. Vali would not want her daughter to take the same path. Since studying at university, he hopes that it then worked. Children, even academics, asking for money to their parents for everything and it's okay to give them.
Many children, I can link. Children born in the early 80's are extremely numerous. Beginning of the Islamic revolution, contraception was prohibited. These children are now 30 years and it is extremely difficult for them find work. Too many. And much of the post in Iran is guarded by the Basij. These are part of a branch of the Guardians of the Revolution and are usually recruited between 12 and 20 years. They are the ones who have served as "cannon fodder" during the Iran-Iraq war. There are the pictures of these martyrs displayed in all cities. This branch has not been removed at the end of the war, but serves as a militia responsible for the repression. Many undertake because they receive government assistance and can get seats reserved for them at the university. Similarly then get a job. We met a young Tabriz has 30 years, Masters in Microbiology and working in a restaurant failing to find work in his field. He already is one of the Basij, and is waived because it was not reflected in the ideology, he nevertheless could have a job more easily in the future. And he said that no work said no woman yet.
In city buses, men sit in front in the first half of the bus and the women get to sit in the middle in the second half of the bus. In the long-distance bus, a man or a woman traveling alone does not sit beside a person of the opposite sex. This causes rotation of the seat throughout the trip when new passengers board.
Bread is cooked in only certain times of day, morning and late afternoon after most of the time. So there's a queue to buy bread. In fact, not one but two lines of waiting, the men on one side and women on the other.
The school to university are unisex. At the university, even if men and women are together in classrooms, they are each seated on one side and did not speak. From an early age, in parks for example, teaches children not to play together if they are not of the same sex. Oceanne has seen little boys run away when approached them!
Returning under my message. From the first day in Iran, Sarakhs, I went down to the reception of the hotel with my scarf on the head to make my breakfast. The first comment of the manager was telling me I look like an Iranian. Tan agrees. I did not know if it would be positive or negative for me. Already in Central Asia, I was asked if I spoke Turkish. In Iran, I was talking directly fa and we are surprised that I do not understand. It then asks me if I speak Turkish. When I answer the question "where are you from" I'm from Canada, they reply "yes, but what are your roots?" I answer France and people are disappointed ... The closest they could be, thinking that I had Spain. Something that was consequently more difficult to live is the fact that my daughter is not like me, at least in appearance, the color again. Walking in the street, people not wanting to stare at me. They then watched Rupert Oceanne and made the connection. Me, I was the framer Iranian did not meet the conventions of Iranian dress. Cycling, so most of the time on my bike, I did not want to invest in the purchase of a coat of Iran. So I contented myself to tie a jacket around the waist, which could go unnoticed for any other tourist is not a woman's skin is tanned. When Rupert says I'm his wife and daughter Oceanne there has always hesitation. The most offensive to me was the day a woman laughed at me, after watching Oceanne then me, then a suspicious air to listen to my response was that my daughter was well qu'Oceanne. Sensitive perhaps but I took it as an insult.
And side trip itself, after Sarakhs, we rolled a few days in the desert before reaching Mashhad. It was time for me to get used to pedal in long sleeves and pants. Not so difficult after all. Before arriving in Mashhad, while we were stopped on the roadside for lunch, a man down from his truck and come see us. I'm sitting with Oceanne in the arms and Rupert layer making a pretend nap. The man came up to me not seeing right now tells me about Rupert and fa. I told him I do not understand. He approached me, very close, and makes me a nod. I ask Rupert to come closer and it comes between us. We think he wants to discuss with us, and we give the usual answers. This man is not interested. Rupert told him that I am his wife and daughter Oceanne. He did not seem to understand. The man with whom he was in the truck told him to come to understanding that we are tourists. The man then back off again and insisted on me with her winks and beckons me to come with him. Rupert said no and finally he leaves. Hmmm. It has been 3 days since I am Iran. This never happened to me in other countries. I am convinced that this could have happened elsewhere, but even doing all of the link between this incident and the fact that I said that I looked like an Iranian.
In Mashhad, I can not feel myself in the street. I must learn not to meet the eyes of a man. I do not feel free to run after my daughter, to make movements that I'm used to. I tell myself that it is all about adaptation. In fact, I'm surprised because I had in my head that cover my head was enough to be respectful and the rest would be like everywhere else. But no, because everything goes together. Most of the time we said hello and even Rupert has Oceanne, but not me. I stay in the shade. Mashhad, Qom as the reputation of being very conservative as a city very religious city. So I'll see later elsewhere. One of the great moments in Mashhad, which also means "place of martyrdom" was visiting the shrine (the only one to be in Iran) of the 8th Imam of Shiites, Imam Reza, died in the 9th century. It is an extremely important place of pilgrimage and it is a chance for us non-Muslims to visit it (a requirement for women to wear the chador, an experience in itself). We presented at the hour of prayer and it was even more packed crowd. Atmosphere impressive and filled with emotion, I had my hair that stood on the arm to see and hear these people mourn the death of the Imam. We stayed several days Mashhad history refuel quickly after our crossing of Turkmenistan. In addition, we had a history of money to settle. Visa and Mastercard, symbols of capitalism are not in Iran. Apparently that transfers money from outside to Iran are part of economic sanctions. Western Union is not the either. We did not have enough money in the bank in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, we could only have had Ashgabat and we did not go. Vali Mashhad us aid, but it was not a simple story!
We already started to think about end of the trip and that is why we chose the shortest route. It was also the end of October and the end of autumn approaching. We're headed towards the Caspian Sea. First a small passage in the gorgeous mountains. The cars we see on the road are Paykan, Iran too polluting car, the company's stop there a few years of production, and Peugeot. The model 405 is the most popular is the car average price, best quality / price! The Iranians have their production plants. It also crosses a number of young Elvis on a motorcycle. It is the occupation of people in their twenties, failing to find work surely, to walk in the countryside has 1, 2 or 3 on the bike. They have hormones in the ceiling. A woman on bike, never seen in real life. This is apparently banned in Iran, probably too provocative, and yet I've never said anything even though I often crossed the police. Hormones in the ceiling, yes. Could never be in contact with women has its consequences. Even a woman in baggy pants, buttocks covered, okay slightly elongated position, the person concerned. That's how I got harassed a second time on the road. A man followed us almost a full day and liked it a go before me to take my picture. A family car passed by, stopped to offer us tea and biscuits. We could tell him what was happening. Man We were left alone for a few hours to find one last time with a woman in back of his motorbike to show us that we do not want to hurt ... 2nd time 3rd time but no, I did not want or when I leave the country. Diverse country. Every time I started to feel comfortable in the country, aided by events such as happy family on the road, an event that I was often holding back at the same time. I try, I try not to have negative thoughts in order to say then that this country is not what it says ... Without requesting permission to camp in a field inside a private property, you settle. Instead of being driven as it could have been happen in many countries, the owner invited us to come home. Already installed, we refuse. It offers a dozen fresh eggs! The next morning, he and his wife bring us breakfast in the tent. His wife invited us for lunch. Yet we refuse because we have to hit the road. The next town, there is again inviting ... If we always agreed, we would still be in the country!
after crossing the arid mountains, we pass from the other side, wet side to the Caspian Sea. The crossing of the Golestan National Park, an enormous drill bit, has combined with meeting many boars. I had never seen and there were plenty! We then arrives turkmeme territory. The Persians are the majority ethnic Iran, but many live close to Turkmenistan Turkmen. There are also Kurds to the border with Turkey and Iraq. And Azeris in the north-west in the region lAzerbaidjan. All these people are absolutely well integrated in Iran, unlike the country needs. No ethnic problems here. Maybe the Afghans are they the less fortunate since they are the ones who do the work that the Iranians do not want to do. Many have immigrated to Iran when the Taliban government of Afghanistan was, they are now encouraged to return home. In short, the Turkmens. This was our best experience in Iran. While we ate our lunch beside the road, A man and his nephew invites us home. 3 offers and 3 after refusal, we accept. "You are here to meet people, is not it?" Indeed, one can not refuse! Mansoud take us home and we did meet the whole family. People into gold. We eat like kings. They make "jokes" about Ahmadinejad, but not too much because we say we can not talk politics. It will not take any risk. They also speak of bin Laden by making jokes because they know that Westerners take for the terrorists! They criticized some Persians and their chador. Turkmen women, themselves, wear colorful robes and scarves to match. They carry it in their villages during festivals or at home. But in public places or at school is the dominant Persian dress by compliance.
The 3 girls Ahmad, nieces for whom we are invited, as many Iranians speak very good English as they attend classes 2 times per week. They serve as translators for the evening. Knowledge of English helps us enormously in touch with the Iranians, the more they want to talk about their country. A question that comes up all the time: "What do you think of Iran?". Iranians are proud of their country but at the same time a lack of confidence because they know what the West thinks of them. It is an extremely cultured and educated people who do not like being "Upgraded to" emerging countries. 65% of academics are women, but only 13% of them then find work. Men and women mixtures, only 50% of 25-29 year olds find work after graduating. Each year, more than 150 000 young graduates leave the country to find jobs corresponding to their qualifications in Western countries. A big waste of brains to the country ... All Iranians with whom we could share them we have talking about a family member living abroad. Going back to English, to my surprise, everything is written in two languages. All traffic signs are fa and Latin alphabet. For all the food we buy, the label is written at least fa and English. Huge open-minded I think. I have not seen that in no other country has crossed outside the European Union. Iran is far more open to the outside than what you may think. The Iranians are well aware of what is happening outside their homes.
Turkmen family with whom we stayed for a first night Mansoud and his wife, sent us in one of their parents Gonbad. Ahmad also welcomed us like kings. To make me feel more comfortable, he told me that I did not need to keep my scarf if I did not want. The day is to eat at different times. Arrived for lunch, we had an aperitif, or the-candy-cookie-fruit dry. Then, the meal as such. Then a pause and tea time again accompanies fruit. Then we went to meet the family in the countryside. The girls asked me to dress in Turkmen. Free for me, or just to try out as well. I was not sure, I am also left with my clothes in a bag. Finally, I was comfortable the more you let me take off my scarf which I always slid head. Under the scarf I was wearing a small ring, a sign that I am a married woman. We first went to Ahmad's sister for dinner and then in the sister of the wife of Ahmad for the-cookie-fruit. We came out of these two days and satisfy! The next morning, in addition to a breakfast rich, a daughter of Ahmad us prepare our picnic including a thermos of tea for our lunch on the road. Ahmad looks at what we had in our bag of food and supplemented with date-nut-the-cookie packs. They offered a pair of sandals Oceanne to give her a gift. We talked a lot about religion with Ahmad very religious. He told me that they call Jesus Isa was in the Koran. For them, Isa is not dead, it's someone else who was crucified, he was stolen. Totally unaware of this. Ahmad was a little shocked that we were drinking alcohol. We tried to explain to her daughters, aged between 14 and 18 years and asked us questions, not the negative side. AC also interesting.
was left Turkmen hospitality to go around Gorgan. We took the opportunity to make a visa extension. We did not want to hurry us out of the country. As opposed to obtaining the visa, the extension is very easy to get a story from a few hours. We were even offered tea and biscuits to make us wait in the office of the police. The Iranians have unquestionably a great sense of hospitality. We then joined the Caspian Sea coast. A little disappointing because the road does not so often along the sea Moreover, it is extremely developed, booming. There are real estate agency has a ton to sell all the apartments in towers not completed to be constructed. Passing a Nowshahr, we had photographs, film making 3 times around the roundabout in the city, interview with superficial way by a local newspaper reporter. It has also visited the Ramsar Summer Palace of the Shahs Pahlavi dynasty decorated by a majority of French plays. Even recent history. Interesting. These are many Teherani with second residence on the coast who come to visit. This is another type of Iranians. I'm suddenly much more comfortable on the coast. Men talk to me as Rupert's. Women have half the hair has discovered. The scarf falls "inadvertently" in reverse. It lies on a beach to eat at the same time that Tehran are all these come enjoy some fresh air on those beaches littered with rubbish that did not seem to bother them. They smoke the nargile, listen to loud music, even dance.
In Iran, in general, clusters are slowed down. Every time we attracted people with our bikes, a police officer arrived quickly to see what was happening. Then once on the roadside waiting for Rupert bought bread, people came around me. Become too numerous, a policeman asked me to leave. I told him I expected Rupert sign. I could not go with the two bikes anyway! We also hear very little music in the streets, not in stores, just in places a sandwich. Iranian food is excellent when you are prompted. But eating out is a challenge. The restaurants, there are very few. It is mostly sandwich makers. Even men get together very little outside. We see them behind the glass drinking a tea or smoking a nargile, but not outside, not the squares, not on sidewalks.
was stopped pedaling at Rasht as it was then cross the mountains to reach Tabriz. No desire to climb in the cold and want to go home was that we took a bus to Tabriz. Again put the bikes in the bunkers is a difficult case. They do not know how, we know how, but they want to do! A journey tiring, without comfort, which lasted one night. Arrived before dawn, surprised by the cold in this city, we waited in the bus terminal as the sun and people get up to find a hotel. Then at our hotel search not too expensive, a young man in car stops to chat with us. We are tired, we did not find a hotel, it invites us home, accept it. Yet we forget the principle of which is entirely t'aarof a Persian form of civility. One feature is to let the right person to offer something in principle, to be the same level as the one who can accept or refuse. For example, a taxi driver saying to do not pay, or the grocer, or restaurants offering meals, or someone offering hospitality. It's in the game and refuse to offer. This is something that is learned young. But in fact, when we offer, we must reject at least 3 times! If this is not a real offer, the taxi driver will come to accept the money as the restaurant or grocer. As one who offers hospitality - courtesy. To think of us refuse, and if we really want, after 3 times, he always tells us to come home. This time, with Morteza, we accept without thinking the first time and have probably embarrassed for our entire stay home!
It therefore follows up his apartment. In fact, that of his family because Morteza has only twenty years. His parents are owners of a building of several apparetements in Tabriz. One is empty, it can hold. Then he realized that there is not very cold as hot. He then wants us to offer breakfast, goes to buy bread, and finally returns, telling us that we will eat at him, with his parents in the suburbs of Tabriz. So he took his mother invited to! The t'aarof is also bend over backwards for their guests ... Morteza did his military service. There is a general driver and is taken every morning for him. His mother offers lunch and offers to sleep with them because the other apartment is too cold. This changes everything. We will no longer all alone in an empty apartment, but prompts the mother of Morteza. We will be more outside of Tabriz therefore dependent Morteza and his car. What can I say? We can no longer refuse and go in search of a hotel. We accept ... The coming days will be very ole-ole and you will realize that Morteza is a busy man and he was not ready to receive us. A new experience. You meet friends and family members very friendly. Here we also allow me not to wear my scarf. Some tell us enormously in their country, their president they dislike. All Iranians with whom we have been able to return we have said Ahmadinejad was crazy. They ask us not to believe everything they say about their country. They also say that their government is lying. It has very little, anyway Astonishingly, heard criticism of the Ayatollahs, out of respect no doubt. It also discusses individual liberty. They tell us at what point they are never free of mind, difficult to have friends, to trust them without thinking they can be part of the militia who secretly denounced. Morteza would leave the country for freer mind. Meanwhile, they are able to drink alcohol and organize festivals. Apparently, the alcohol comes from Turkey. It was invited to a party, but refused the invitation to take no risk has yet to do illegal things. Experience slightly negative in this meeting, Morteza mother, grandmother of a little girl of 1 1 / 2 year was stealing clothes from Oceanne in our absence. Fleece pants and sweater for winter practice ...
The city of Tabriz Azeri city, provincial capital of Azerbaijan, we have a lot more, especially its enormous covered bazaar. Apparently the longest in the world, 3 kms over 2 kms, it was already important in antiquity and was to be an important place of exchange along the Silk Road. There are 4 days deambule always returning to the bazaar carpet ... We liked a lot, but to make a long story short, the man would not sell it to us. It came every day, last day, Morteza and his friends who have tried for us, but nothing was done. The lowest price was $ 1,200 and the price never decreases in 4 days. And we did not have that much money. Oh it was beautiful! We took pictures before going to jump on the train to Van in Turkey.
This trip Tabriz-Van does not normally constitute only 6 hours by train. But we left at 22h30 and arrived at 8am in the morning! Train sleeper perfect. But no, what a trip. In fact, we did wake up every two hours to pass the border into ... A first stop at midnight when many of us slept deeply. It is to leave Iran. We sent down to present us with customs. Rupert has a migraine coming. You can not go back on the train before 3am as customs inspect the train car and especially the freighter. It restarts and it goes back to sleep. Hop, 5 am, waking up to the Turkish customs. Oceanne this time still asleep in my arms. I enjoy not wearing my scarf. I'm on Turkish soil. By cons, passengers stare at me. Other women do not discover, is no tourist, probably Muslim, "Turkish-Kurdish" Van. There are still two lineups, one for women, one for men. I start with Rupert. I'm on Turkish soil. This time, we can go back on the train right away, but it does not leave before 5-6am for the inspection of the train again. We're all in the 3 a compartment with another man. It goes something strange that does only half. It transports small blocks in a carton that vacuum. He put 3 of these small blocks next to us on the radiator. Others, it puts them in a bag. Customs rummage his bag, not ours, tourists, but do not see the other 3 blocks ... After the passage of customs, it puts everything in the box. That's all! We leave and we arrive at Van fatigues and happy to be in Turkey!
Iran, I will return to me feel better. But not by bicycle. To visit the sights. And try not to be tanned! I think this country can be even more fantastic when is a man or you can probably see nothing, but not hear anything because the Iranians want to talk to us, the special symbol of that society. They told us that their country had seen many periods of change and they think it's soon time for another ...
I could not prevent you from writing a novel. Too talkative decide! Be aware of your freedom and enjoy.
Dorothee
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