Bonjour,
It was! And safely!
From Dunhuang we had to take the bus in the morning to Hami. Standing was 6:30, we went to the bus station early enough to be able to load all our stuff in Soutter. What a surprise when we saw the size of the bus ... very small. And Soutter were already full of cargo. The driver said no and let go all the passengers and allow them to load their luggage. We came two days earlier so they can see out our bikes and trailers. It did not help ... And they did not think to take a bus bigger. The security lady told us to come back the next morning the bus will be greater. Oh, and under what security? ... Asked if there is a bus to Turpan, much further. Yes, the same evening at 18h and they assure us that it's a big bus. So is the option we choose. Unfortunately, this makes us miss a huge distance by bicycle. And as we travel at night, we will not see the landscape that we would have seen in cycling. But we can not do everything in China ...
14 hour sleeper bus. It's an experience! They are not chairs, beds or totally, the record is tilted so that from behind to put his feet underneath. There are 3 rows and 2 floors. Relatively cups ... Air conditioning has low or below the floor I was, and far above or was Rupert. Oceanne had no bed for her. There was a free one part of the trip, the rest she slept with me ... It's still great! Sore back and buttocks for me! We arrived Sunday morning. Loading in Soutter has not been smooth. Some small breaks on my trailer, but especially the derailleur cable breaks for bike also Rupert (it was good use). It is a shift here disregarded. So he pedals 3 speeds up the next largest city, Kashgar, Bishkek or ... Great for the mountains!
We spent our Sunday rest in a hotel air conditioning. Just enough time to roll up our bikes at 8am in the morning, sweating heavily. 40C here! We are at 154m below sea level, after the second depression Dead Sea. The hottest spot in China. We are in a large oasis wet!
Monday morning we started our day with a visit to the Public Security Bureau (PSB) to extend our visa. After three police stations, we found the right one. The person responsible was not there. We are asked to return the next day. Well, this is not for today! ... So we are visiting the mosque and the minaret of Emin Khoja built in 1777, while bricks, Afghan style. Huge surprise, the place we met Sasha, a friend of Claire D., living in Shanghai. I knew he was visiting Urumqi for work, but the dates do not allow you to see. Voila came sightseeing in Turpan a day at the same time at the mosque. What a great coincidence! We had the time to discuss, but not as much with a guide, his schedule for the day was done. After our visit, we go eat at HQ Western John's cafe! Lettuce-tomato-cucumber yogurt and fries with ketchup! I met a Quebecois traveling with her son for a month. Happy to speak french for 2nd time today! It's also nice to share our travels, we are not that often. In the evening we will visit the Grand Bazaar. We are in Xinjiang. Everything has changed dramatically. We find all colored fabrics. Women wear headscarves and long robes they are to the Grand Bazaar. There many seamstresses using machines Singer pedal. We feel having a foot in Central Asia. We find a mixture of Han Chinese type, type Turkoman with dark skin and deep black eyes, and type Indo-European style Kazak's skin whiter. It tasted so has Uighur food, and learn again how to say hello and thank you. The type of language has nothing to Chinese, but perhaps similar to the Turkish (the sound). The writing is Arabic.
Tuesday morning, we return to the PSB. He is firm. Than we were told yesterday ... We begin to doubt and say that we should go to Urumqi for more efficiency. The knock on more doors. Finally, someone calls someone who calls someone. A man without expression is we open the office, looked through our passports and gave us three forms to complete. Not a word. He hits a computer, pay us and asks us to return the next day, get our passports. Wow! We return to John's cafe bunkers and playful and they share a visit Karez the morning after.
A Karez is an irrigation system found in Iran, Afghanistan and Xinjiang, regions unique to arid and mountainous. The idea is to bring water from the mountains to irrigate areas was through a network of underground canals. There is no pump. All channels were drilled manually by assuring the inclination of the slope in order to bring the water to the point of irrigation. In Xinjiang, the oldest date back 2,000 years, is a network of 5272 km underground and 313 km which are open, especially in the area of Hami and Turpan. There karez 1784. In 2003 and 1170 were dry and 614 were still used. In 2009, only 427 were used. Between 1950 and 2003, 23 have dried up by year. Between 2003 and 2009, 32 per dry years. Turpan is a major grape-producing region. In the city there are streets covered with vineyards (there's cooler to walk). We get drunk and clusters in time! Delicious white grape. This adds to the melon, watermelon, nectarines, plums, peaches!
So we went to get our passports this morning. We have the time it takes to reach Kashgar and Kyrgyzstan. It's really a relief. We will resume the road tomorrow after more than a week without bike. We pass between the Taklamakan desert and the Tien Shan chain. Beautiful landscapes in perspective I think. There are few cities, but I am uncertain as to their size and their point of internet access ... So probably no other news before Kashgar.
you soon, Dorothee
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