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Back momentane Asia Centale

Hello,

Uzbekistan and Tajikistan are countries which I had not yet had the opportunity to speak and our stay over there can not be neglected in the literature. The Valley region Fergana has definitely been our favorite of the trip, especially since we had no expectations.

Our first contact was with the Uzbeks in Osh in Kyrgyzstan. Much has been heard in this city last June when, after protests in Bishkek calling for the departure of the president, then the instability strongly felt in the south where there is a high concentration of Uzbeks. Kazakh-Kyrgyz

-Uzbek-Tajik-Turkmen. All these peoples have been a part CREATED ° under Stalin. Divide and rule, as was his mission. These countries were one, Turkestan, as the Russians became an Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic of Turkestan. The Kazakhs, Kyrgyz and Turkmens are of nomadic origin while the Uzbeks and Tajiks have settled over time. All are root Turkish except that the Tajiks are Persian roots. Indeed, the most nationalist of them like to ask them to Uzbekistan cities of Samarkand and Buxoro who were 2 major Persian cultural centers. They are still two cities Tajik majority.

The Fergana Valley extends geographically more eastern qu'Osh to the foot of the Pamir Mountains and south to the foot of the mountains Fan. Uzbeks, when they settled settled in this valley very fertile. This is the region of Uzbekistan's richest and most populous. The only region of Central Asia or roads are of good quality that is to say, are like in every other country hits. It also is observed or the Uzbeks very workers. In contrast to the Kyrgyz nomads in the blood, watching horses graze their flocks of sheep or ... Part of the Fergana Valley is therefore in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan with a high concentration of Uzbeks. When Stalin wanted to create Tajikistan as a republic, we had a million people to have a recognized status and there was not enough Tajiks. The Fergana Valley being heavily populated, he simply pushes the boundary a little further north of what was formerly autonomous region of Tajikistan in Uzbekistan. It was also a compensation loss of the cities of Samarkand and Buxoro. There are still many Uzbeks in the region of Khujand. It is also the richest region of Tajikistan. She was spared the 90 year civil war by its geographic isolation in the northern mountains Fan. Regarding the east of the Valley, the border has Osh is probably one of the most absurd in the world. There are 40% of Uzbeks in Osh, 80% and 70% had Ozgon has Jalal Abad. In Osh, the shops are mostly held by the Uzbeks, but the politics and administration is managed by the Kirghiz. Having visited this city, two people appear to live in perfect harmony. They live mixes. It seems that the instability, conflict and therefore are higher and there is not concretely racial hatred. According to our host, nobody seems to know how the riots began last June. Clearly, we were witnesses of Uzbek houses and shops burned down. Apparently, life has changed. The neighbors have excuses, they made peace, but all live with the fear that again. The last time that riots had taken place, it was in 1990 Ozgon. Uzbeks, hardworking and determined not want to flee. They live on these lands for hundreds of years. The refugees are in Uzbekistan and Russia, women and children especially, because men have returned to rebuild. Osh is an ancient city dating back to at least the 5th century BC, the territory of sedentary, not nomadic. Thank you for having Stalin set of boundaries ...

was leaving the country before the presidential elections in October. The borders between Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan were closed with only two crossing points for tourists. In Osh, the tourists can not get out of Uzbekistan to go to Kyrgyzstan because Uzbekistan does not let them escape! In the opposite direction, ours, no problem. We therefore arrive at the border before the doors closed. We request ° tourists ¨. It responds ¨ yes ¨. Open Sesame ¨ ¨. Here we are between the 2 countries. Easy passage. We are happy to change country. The Fergana Valley and its inhabitants unfold before our eyes. Happy people - everywhere smiles - in the cotton fields on the roadside, in the villages. We stopped to offer us bread, apples, water, watermelon (again and again, we make an acute ecoeurantite). Asalom aleykhum ¨ ¨ (peace be with you). Valeykhum asalom ¨ ¨ (and peace with you). It serves her right hand and left hand on the heart. For Rupert often, but also for me. Sincere and warm greetings. We did not know better. Uzbekistan is separated into two east-west (as is the north-south Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan east-west with the Autonomous Region of the Pamirs in the east). The neck has Kamchik 2267m separates the two regions. It is very highly controlled. The Fergana Valley is known to be highly Muslim extremist terrorism even see. The Uzbek Islamist movement claiming an independent Islamic state was highly active in Afghanistan when the Taliban were in power. Still, much more. In addition, a strong culture and deeply rooted, this region was much less Russified the western part of the country. When the government finds this region too unstable or too dangerous, he closes the neck to stop the migration between the two regions. The way to move from one region to another to pass through the north of Tajikistan, the region of Khujand.

We spent our first night in the city of Andijon. Everything closes at dusk or night. More nobody in the streets. The restaurants are full for lunch, but many close to 18h. Nobody goes out to dinner. Surprising. The next day, the streets around the bazaar are teeming with life. People want to talk to us, happy to see tourists as rare as they mostly do not go to the east that Qo'qon. We visit our first medresa (Koranic school) from the 19th century - it is really old compared to what will follow but still very beautiful. Only the front entrance and facade have withstood an earthquake. Rupert also went to the bazaar to exchange money. The ticket is the biggest Sum of 1000 and is approximately equal to 50 cents Euro. Exchange was U.S. $ 150! What effect have this pile of notes between hands! The black market is frequent. Only innocent people are going to the bank. U.S. $ 1 = 1700 Sum while on the black market, there may be between 2000 and 2400 Sum! Huge difference. How this country can have a currency and therefore a stable economy with that? Premises (such as breakfast B & B for example) make their money by converting from the rate given by their agents on the black market. We then pedal up or Marg'ilon we have visited a traditional silk factory - the cocoon stage until the production of carpet or scarf. Just walking down the street in this small town was a pleasure. We spend a bread maker to another. The bread is baked in a clay dome over a wood fire. We eat Shashlyk, skewers of meat, usually mutton, and drink black tea - and not green as in Kyrgyzstan. And our journey continues until Qo'qon bike, front door of the Fergana Valley of Uzbekistan. There is the palace of the last khan Khudoyar Khan, finished in 1873, just three years before the Tsar's army arrives, destroy everything and end the reign of the Khanate Qo'qon. The palace is under renovation and rebuilding, as the city beyond. The old town with its narrow winding streets are still present around the bazaar. But a new modern city is being built in back of the palace. Looks like a street-museum with shop fronts all similar. It is the mission of our dear President Karimov to embellish life almost in Uzbekistan. In 2007, despite the provisions of the Constitution prohibiting serve more than two consecutive terms of 7 years, he has succeeded in circumventing the rules to ensure that we remain at the head of the state for over 25 years! A nice feature of Central Asia! The most democratic country is perhaps Kyrgyzstan, but the President is often driven from power and the country falls into instability ... Qo'qon after, instead of continuing the road to go to Uzbekistan Toshkent, we pass through Tajikistan to lead us directly to Samarkand. So we proceeded and Khujand in the Fergana Valley of Tajikistan. You can not really say have known since the Tajiks is still only 3 days remaining. The residents of Khujand resembled strongly to the Uzbek Ferghana Valley. Incomes in Uzbekistan, the invitations have continued. While we often refused on the pretext that we did not have time (our visa is only for 30 days and we had to go during this period for our visas Toshkent Turkmen and Iranian), we finally decided to accept at least once to go to tea with Rustam and his family. It was lunchtime. We are offered tea with bread and watermelon. The classical Uzbek. Can we stay for lunch. We used the plov, mixed rice, mutton, and vegetables. We spend two hours very pleasant. Rustam is a farmer. He took Rupert visit his cotton fields and pick watermelons. They are young (16 years) and Women working in the fields at harvest cotton. Irrigation canals are everywhere. Many are losing their effectiveness because they are extended and exposed to air and therefore have a high evaporation ... When we were in Khujand, we saw the Syr Darya still not deviated almost at the exit of the mountains, nothing to do with it is to the west as Toshkent example ...

Jizzax has Arrived, we've left our bikes to a first round trip Toshkent to our request for transit visa for Turkmenistan. 24 hours in the capital and we have recovered our bicycles at Jizzax with a bit of trouble ... Arrived at night, we were not able to find our hotel. The day we are worried for Toshkent Jizzax parties, we took a taxi sharing one end of town. We came in mini-bus to another side of the city. Unable to spot us because we had not taken the time to visit Jizzax! We're asked or you want to go, we can only respond to the hotel. We have only received the name more or less clears. We know only that the marshrutka (mini bus) no1 passes our hotel. We try to explain it and someone changes the number of his No. 7 in marshrutka no1 to satisfy us! He takes us through the city and we do not know or we are going. It is 9pm! A passenger tries to call a friend who speaks English that explains our situation! The connection the mobile phone is bad. We keep repeating "hotel - marshrutka # 1" but this is not enough! The mini-bus turns into # 1 # 7 is back on his way back to square one! 5 passengers boarded a half drunk. One is able to decipher our hotel receipt. But yes Jizzax Hotel "at the end of the street over there. Yeah! Everyone applauded the mini-bus! Our mini-bus had deposited us Toshkent 5 minutes walk from our hotel and we spent an hour to walk around the city in a marshrutka who were No. 1 and No. 7 2 in 1!. We then took 2 days to reach Samarqand bike.

We arrived at Rejistan (which means "place of sand) to 3 beautiful medresa October 6. Mythical city for me who had a strong interest on the Silk Road. We who, two days after leaving Beijing, wanted to go home. I remember I said I wanted to know Kashgar and Samarkand. It was my motivation at the time. Mission accomplished the day before my birthday. I am delighted. All these monuments are absolutely beautiful. They have been beautifully renovated, almost too maybe because they do not look so old. In addition, life around has disappeared entirely. This is probably my great disappointment. I buy old photos to remind me how to stretch to the early 20th century. Muslims came to pray on the spot. It was also the grand march. There is nothing left. Behind the Rejistan, Uzbeks still live in the "Old Samarkand", but they are separated by a large wall. Maybe they do not want to have buses of tourists landing in their homes? THE streets of the neighborhood "Toshkent Street" has become a pedestrian street deserted. The facades of the tourist shops frequented were not made under the same model of what we saw in construction Qo'qon ... Modern and behind, hidden houses. It is as if the government wanted to hide something. All history is gone, create a city-museum. It is in the modern Samarkand Russified I found the Uzbeks. Even in the main bazaar next to the Rejistan, life has disappeared. Sad.

Because we do not have enough time on our visas to go to Samarkand Buxoro by bicycle, we will take the train. Rupert does not want to miss a bit of road biking. So he goes an entire day to pedal 260 miles from Samarkand has Buxoro! Me, I spent a day more to visit the city with Oceanne. I also want to make my photo of Iranian visa, although we still have no news of the agency ... I do not have a scarf in my possession. It is when we seek that we find it! I borrowed one from a store, a nice brown! I explain to employees why. Then all they want to see the photo of the beautiful FARMER! The picture flows and they are all surprised to learn that I must have your head covered for the visa. And yes. The main religion in Central Asia is Islam. But with 70 years of Russification, it was somewhat diluted ... by vodka. Except in the Fergana Valley where you can find more orthodox Muslims, dress code, no alcohol, good knowledge of religion for the rest, the inhabitants of Central Asia take religion for aid to the identity culture. Wanting to keep out of Russian influence since they are being abandoned, they become Muslims and increases the number of mosques (heavily subsidized by Iran and Saudi Arabia).

We are then returned to Toshkent. We could not get our visa Transit TX as we had no receipt for the next country or Iran. Our days were numbered before having to leave the country. Without our new agency for the Iranian visa, they began to think of an alternative such as taking a direct flight Toshkent-Yerevan. Then our reference number is coming and everything was settled! It took time to visit a little capital, partying with other cycling events at our hotel. Dino and Simone traveling in tandem from Italy to India, Simone visually impaired, it was the project. They met only a few months before leaving. Dino was tired of this spot as a guide, having to do everything for him but especially for Simone. A great gift for granted. We attended the end. One morning we were told they were returning to Italy. The journey finishes. And Mike, a Canadian who wanted pedaling night in Uzbekistan, ready to arrive very late Toshkent. At 22h, while he was eating in obsurite in a field very far from the capital, he was robbed of his bike! Everything was up in the night with the help of police. Ali and visited to see what looked like a B & B in case we want to change places. He tells us that the government has closed his hotel after a battle lasting several months. Why? ... We met Ali at lunch and he was heavily soaked with vodka! He invited us to eat and drink and dance all the after-noon in his hotel farm! We also met this French family traveling in a camper outside the embassy of Turkmenistan. We were invited to take tea in their truck parked next to a park. Oceanne played with 3 children and we were discussing good trip! What beautiful experiments has Toshkent.

We Samarqand income just enough time to recover we had left our bikes at the hotel and put them on the train to Buxoro. We spent the entire weekend to visit this city, a little less than Samarqand city museum as historic sites are more extensive in the city. By cons in all caravansaries, medrese, bazaars, craft is exposed. Pottery, scarves, carpets, there is no one space, not one empty wall. It is very difficult to admire the building in its first state ... As of Monday morning, our race against time for Turkmenistan has started! It was greatly appreciated especially Uzbekistan for its population. It has crossed many trips organized by Toshkent-Samarqand-Buxoro-Khiva and many independent travelers doing the same thing. But Uzbekistan is far from being limited to that. The inhabitants of these cities are heavily affected by tourism and are very far from representing what may be the Uzbek population.

A bit of everything to finish.

Each Central Asian country has its favorite car brand. In Kyrgyzstan, it was found a large majority of Mercedes and Audi used. This reminded us of Albania ... Stolen vehicles? ... Tajikistan is also with Opel models used. Uzbekistan is widely Daewoo-Chevrolet dominates with new cars. There is a factory Andijon. No specificity for Turkmenistan. It has perhaps not had time to see in 5 days. In Iran, that's for later, Peugeot will specially with the model 405.

The inhabitants of Central Asia have more strongly with their golden teeth!

We noticed the incursion of Chinese in the discrete region. They are the ones who build the roads especially in Tajikistan so that their trucks can move more efficiently. We saw So many white trucks Chinese in Kyrgyzstan. Charges but they go completely back to China empty. Kyrgyzstan has nothing to trade between them? ...

Since independence all these countries, we feel a deep search for identity in every people. My vision is to think about outdoor they will come out much better if they again became one country Turkestan. After all, they are not so different from each other and there's so all people in each country. Moreover, Stalin had carefully organized so that they each develop a specialty and thus remain dependent on others for the rest, such as cotton in Uzbekistan, the intensive cultivation of cereals in Kazakhstan. They must all learn to diversify. But that's my opinion they are outside and far from thinking like me! Unfortunately everyone has learned not to love his neighbor ... Kyrgyz and Uzbeks do not like each other. Uzbeks and Tajiks do not like each other. Uzbeks and Turkmen, ca, ca va! It is easier for Uzbeks to find their identity as they have always been important. But it is harder for the Kirghiz nomads who were then Russian.

That is said! You can imagine, I will not talk to Iran today! Tomorrow, we leave after spending almost a Van week to let them live at the hotel!

Dorothee

Delta Medallion Qualification Miles

Elvis And His motorbike

HI there,

penultımate
And so to the story of this little adventure. We are currently s of Van, Eastern Turkey and being lazy. A five days eating Kebabs, Buren and Lamajun, going to the bath, playing of a park, plus constant visits to an Internet cafe. Should be on the road for the last week of a couple of days heading towards London. Mashad and the money was

where l left off last. The brother kind of elderly in Vancouver but finally, by telephone conference can you believe, our money transfer accepted. We left the next day with the plan beıng to come back ın four days to collect the money that Valı, our host, had not at thıs short notıce had enough tıme to put together ımmedıately. We had recıeved money ın Iran whıch ın all cases ıs ıllegal but ıt shows that of course, there are ways around the system. We left the mornıng of my bırthday whıch was great as far as l was concerned plus we had a wınd ın our backs! Small pleasures ındeed but a pleasure all the same. The weather was fıne but begınnıng to be cool durıng the nıght but nothıng uncomfortable wıth our campıng gear. But then after a couple of days ıt all changed. Wınd ın the face and raın. RAIN. The tent started to leak agaın and we were not entırely happy on our bıkes! The tent has leaked sınce the begınnıng and even wıth sealıng the seams, ıt stıll leaked. It's a great tent ın terms of ıt's sıze and general desıgn but ıt leaks! l am sure l dıd a good job wıth the tent seal gluey lıquıd as well, even though ıt shoulden't be needed on a new tent. I could go onto, the 'MADE ın CHINA' rant agaın but l won't. We stopped, wet and mıserable ın a roadsıde restaurant for some hot and fıne Iranıan food and ın fact never left. Untıl the next mornıng that ıs. Even though the chıcken/yoghurt was really good and warm, we never really warmed up. It was now gettıng dark at 4.30 p.m whıch left two hours of lıght left and because the restaurant owner offered the floor upstaırs for next to nothıng and because the raın and wınd was perhaps stronger now, we knew ıt would be an awful rıde to the next town of Quchan. We spent the evenıng dryıng and sealıng our excellent tent, yet agaın and restıng. Next to the paraffın stove kındly lent to us. It hasn't raıned sınce!

Our plan ın Iran was to rıde all the way to Rasht on the Caspıan sea coast vıa Bojnord and Chalus and then, because the Northern mountaıns would be too cold for us, take a bus over the mountaıns to Tabrız and then a traın across the border to Van where we would get back on the road agaın. Thıs ıs exactly what we have done! We had a few problems on the road ıt can be saıd durıng our fırst week on the road. Twıce, Dorothee was harassed quıte ıntensely by two dıfferent men whıle we were bıkıng. Once, when we had stopped for lunch and l was lyıng on the ground restıng, the second tıme when we were on the move. The fırst case was a trucker and hıs mate who stopped, at fırst we belıeved, to say hello lıke all other people do. The strange thıng was that the man who was not the trucker, totally ıgnored me and Oceanne and went straıght up to Dorothee and talked to her. I thought ıt was really just to talk to her but me fındıng out too late and beıng behınd the guy, l coulden't see hıs ıntentıons. Thınkıng Dorothee really understood Farsı, he contınued and as l learnt later, after he was told to back away by the trucker, had wınked and gıven ıronıc smıles to her as well as standıng rıght up to her. It was a bıt of a shock to both of us. Dorothee would be affected by thıs for the rest of her tıme ın Iran especıally as ıt happened a second tıme soon after and for me, as l realısed l really had to be on my guard more and would act as Dorothee's vırtual bodyguard for the rest of the tıme, whıle on the road ın any case. The second guy was a youngısh man on a motorbıke who hunted us for over forty km's but l wasn't makıng any mıstakes thıs tıme and ıt was me who dealed wıth hım dırect and eventually he went away. After that we dıdn't have any problems. It could have been regıonal but who knows as ıt was just ın the East around Mashad. What we do know ıs that everyone thought Dorothee wıth her dark features and scarf looked Iranıan and ıt ıs a common feelıng among some very tradıtıonal Iranıans that women who do not wear the Hıjab properly, meanıng cover all, are prostıtutes! The fact that Dorothee bıked and looked Iranıan was therefore not a good mıx. Probably the fırst tıme for her that ıt ıs certaınly not a good thıng to look lıke the locals ıf we can joke about these thıngs. She was obvıously always ın Hıjab whıch ıs to have your haır covered by a scarf and to have your legs and arms covered, as ıs the law but she dıd not have a manteau, that covers the front of her legs. You can ımagıne how dıffıcult thıs ıs for us as Westerner's to get our heads around, when Dorothee ıs totally covered up wıth a scarf on her head, wearıng baggy trousers and wıth a jacket tıed around her waıst to cover up her behınd. Can you ımagıne a prostıtute ın New York dressed lıke that. It really ıs another World. Sayıng that though, Iran ıs a lot closer to our cultures than Chına for example!

Iran ın general was a bıt lıke a rollercoaster wıth hıgh's and low's almost a constant. We had an entıre breakfast brought to our tent whıle campıng ın stıcky mud and gıven the offer of accomadatıon for as long as we wanted. We were offered tea and lunch l don't know how many tımes. Oceanne had stolen two pairs of socks and trousers all winter while staying with a family of Tabriz. We had a fantastic dinner at this family's exact, brother / the last of law. We were refused entry to a hotel, who did Rasht shout of us want. We were brought our picnic of fish and rice while having a park. All of this now Brings me to one of the most genuine experiences l have ever had. We were on the road and at the same time while having lunch when two men arrived having a family of domestic cars. Always on my guard when their men were at large, as indeed were never to women and also keen to get a bit further towards Gonbad Qabus where we wanted to vısıt tomorrow. l wasn't ın the mood to be socıal but so rıdıculously nıce were they and defınetly trustıng them by thıs poınt, we decıded to call ıt a day and backtrack the fıfteen kılometres to theır home. We never go backwards as goıng forwards ıs sometımes so dıffıcult so thıs was unprecedented! It turned out that thıs famıly was not Persıan but Turkmen. We were, as we already knew ın the Turkmen area of Iran whıch contaıns about 2% of Iran's populatıon. Thıs famıly fed us and showered us and ınvıted more and more famıly members to theır large farmhouse. It was great, and agaın the food was fantastıc as we all sat around the table on the carpet. We started wıth fruıt and tea before the maın meal of chıcken, fısh, rıce and yoghurt. Everythıng always produced wıth a perfect balance of spıce and herbs. We fınıshed off wıth chocolates, sweets and of course, tea. I have a bıt of a problem sıttıng down on the floor at meal tımes as l can't cross my legs properly after breakıng my leg badly when l was younger but thıs slıght paın of mıne ıs always offset by the smıles of the people at the table and ın thıs case ıt was fıfteen others. My new best frıend, the brother ın law of our host, who had a habıt of makıng me laugh by callıng me Peter Crouch all the tıme had ınvıted us for lunch and to stay the next nıght ın Gonbad. That was sıxty km's away and lunch would be at one. It would be an early start then. They ınsısted on gıvıng us a lıft but we defınetly preferred to bıke as that ıs why we were here. They eventually understood thıs wıth a gentle smıle. We arrıved early ın the end. Thıs brother ın law ıs my new best frıend as ıf anythıng we had an even warmer tıme wıth Ahmed and hıs wıfe and three daughters than the nıght before, ıf that was possıble. The gırls who were aged 18, 16 and 14 were completely dıfferent to many gırls ın Persıan households that often are taught to hıde away from male strangers. They dressed ın theır colourful long dresses and scarves that our typıcal of the Turkmen and sat and talked wıth us at all tımes as was normal. It helped that they spoke very good Englısh ın order to translate for Ahmed. I have gıven hım the name of Baba sınce, after one of the characters of Khaled Hosseını's novel, The Kıte Runner. He shall call me Crouch and l wıll call hım Baba. Thıs wıll be the next tıme as l wıll certaınly return to Iran as there ıs a lot of unfınıshed busıness there, ıncludıng buyıng a carpet.

And now to the weather. After re-sealıng the tent and returnıng to Mashad to retrıeve the rest of our money by takıng the bus on a retun trıp from Bojnord ıt has been sunny ever sınce. Cold up here ın the mountaıns but dry and sunny. It has been sunny for nearly four weeks now. Long may ıt last as last year ıt was snowıng here ın Van. Leavıng Valı for the last tıme was sad for us but especıally for hım and Oceanne. For hım as he had not sold us one of hıs trıbal carpets and for Oceanne as she had grown a partıcular attachment Businessman and homestay salemen to this carpet. We do not really like what they call tribal carpets preferrıng here, the City Iranians and carpets which are very popular analytics According to the Lonely Planet, less popular tourists analytics. I am not sure about that though as a lot of Persian carpets Cıty of Montreal, and also my Father bought, sold, Majority of City of carpets from the Middle East when he was there. We found our perfect bazaar of Tabriz of the magnificent carpet of color, and design work. Commonly Called the Fish Design in terms of the form of the central design, we did not have the cash available / an. We were of Iran where tourısts can't go down to the ATM and wıthdraw cash so we just dıd not have enough. Thıs beıng the country wıth the boycott on VISA and Mastercard and anythıng else statesıde. ATM's everywhere but not for us. We were close but not close enough. We were not actually certaın even ıf we had had the money, that the dealer wanted to sell the carpet to us at all. In Iran, Persıan carpets can be complıcated as there ıs one carpet and then there ıs another. They may look the same but one may be totally dıfferent to the other. Age, relatıonshıp to the owner and hıs famıly perhaps, sentımental value. Thıs carpet was hangıng ın hıs offıce and not on the floor so maybe he had an attachment to ıt. Immedıately when we fırst asked about ıt, he dıd not seem so keen to sell ıt. The complete opposıte to carpet sellers ın Istanbul and places ın Chına. We were ın the area of the Bazaar that had the fınest carpets and the most professıonal dealers so maybe we were out of our depth. However, after seeıng hundreds of carpets and not seeıng ONE that was both exactly perfect to both our tastes, we had now found ıt and dıd not want to leave wıthout ıt. But leave wıthout ıt we dıd. We trıed hard, havıng four dıfferent frıends tryıng to get the prıce low enough. We wıll never know ıf we could have left wıth ıt. In all cases the owner, ıf he was the owner dıdn't seem to be bothered. There ıs a pıcture of the carpet on our sıte just to remınd us.

Iranıan culture ıs hard to put ın a box as ın just the regıons that we have passed we saw such a huge dıfference between people. Some love to wear the Chador and would never take ıt off ıf they had the chance. Such as Valı's wıfe ın Mashad as ın hıs own words, 'she loves ıt'. Thıs ıs somethıng that to us before enterıng Iran we could not belıeve. How could you love wearıng a bıg black sheet that takes away your ıdentıty and ındıvıdualıty but love ıt she does lıke so many Iranıan women from tradıtıonal famılıes. I don't know the percentages but ıt could be a lot. Then there are the gırls that hate ıt, such as the women from the capıtal, Tehran who come down to the Caspıan coast beaches to smoke water pıpes and dance wıth musıc from theır smart cars. They just wear the thıgh length jacket aka the manteau and a scarf that ıs lıterally hangıng off the back of theır head. Then on the sıde of the men there are those that are young and blast around on 125cc motorbıkes wıth theır haır greased ınto an Elvıs desıgn wıth tıght trousers that flare slıghtly at the bottom, often wıth bıg shıny belts. The 70's and Elvıs ıs defınetly not dead ın that generatıon. They wıll watch out for any sıgn of a show of behınd from all women desperate to see what they are denıed. They are all perfumed wıth aftershave and dress ın ımmaculate tıght shırts. They look at me wıth my facıal haır and shorts as somewhat as a terrorıst tramp but l don't lıke the 70's style anyway. I do lıke theır bıkes though that are all super-tuned copıes of the Honda CG125 as they are all refused by law to have anythıng bıgger. Only the polıce can. Everyone has perfect shoes as well. There are shoes for sale everywhere ın the cıtıes and towns, most of whıch l actually wanted to buy. After the Elvıs boys there are the adult men who mostly thınk Ahmadınejad, the presıdent ıs crazy and to blame for all theır problems such as the restrıctıons and lack of jobs etc. Few talk about the guardıan councıl and the Ayatollah's whıch are led by supreme leader Ayatollah Khameneı who the presıdent must answer to. Some do, complaınıng that all the top educated posıtıons are taken by the relıgous ıntellectual elıte but most blame the Presıdent. Out of fear or ıgnorance l do not know. What we do know ıs that the securıty polıce are everywhere and that young Iranıans often fınd ıt hard to make true frıends not knowıng ıf theır school mate has joıned the securıty polıce as ıt ıs a well paıd job ın a country where ıt ıs hard ıf not ımpossıble to fınd a job ın your domaın. A massıve percentage of Iranıans go to, and graduate wıth a master's from unıversıty but end up workıng ın a restaurant or sımply leavıng the country because they dıd not follow the relıgous clerıcal route. Thıs means Iran loses theır ıntellectuals meanıng that Iranıans are the most hıghly educated ımmıgrants to the west and Iran loses out ın development. The guardıan councıl don't seem to care as long as the Islamıc Republıc stays ın place. It ıs a strong country nevertheless producıng all ıt needs and doıng busıness wıth Chına ınstead of the west. The securıty polıce survey all e-maıls between everyone and anyone to fınd out who could be a potentıal counter-revolutıonary. Thıs works, as an e-maıl from Dorothee's employer's ın Canada, who happens to be an arm of the Government of Canada, was stopped and never got to her, not even beıng returned to sender! Most people wanted to talk poılıtıcs wıth us and we dıd talk back but trıed never to judge, as ıt was ımpossıble not to say anythıng. We got out of the country alıve so l would say all ın all, ıt's not terrıble to talk government. It's dıffıcult not to, when Ayatollah Khameneı and the Republıc's founder and lıberator, Imman Khomeneı are lookıng down on you from every buıldıng. Along wıth those two there are photos of the Iranıan martyrs who dıed fıghtıng durıng the Iran-Iraq war of the eıghtıes, along all the maın avenues. All blessed to go to paradıse. Along wıth them you wıll fınd donatıon boxes everywhere, even out ın the stıcks, that the Government wıll take and then dıstrıbute to good causes. A good ıdea ıf the money goes to the rıght place as Iranıans love to gıve.

Iran ıs huge and we saw such a small part but ın just what l saw l had a fantastıc tıme. The mountaıns after Bojnord were beautıful as the sun was low on the horızon. We had fought our way up ın a bugger of a headwınd but then came down the other sıde to green forests and wıld boars on the descent down to the Caspıan sea. The food was ıncredıble ıncludıng sımple thıngs lıke bread that l mostly always had to queue for as everyone else dıd as ıt ıs made fresh ın these huge ovens only at the rıght hours of the day. Queue's are seperate for Women and for men as ın buses where the women enter and sıt ın the back wıth the men ın the front. These thıngs are strange and not natural for us but after a month we grew to accept ıt but ıt ıs really sılly. Iranıans are bıg fans of freshly squeezed juıce and mılkshakes that are sometımes really sweet but all are really good ıncludıng my favourıte, pomegranate juıce. Juıce bars are everywhere as well as sweet pastry and cake shops. Large supermarkets were often not to be seen, replaced by tıny cornershops that are also everywhere. When l went to go shoppıng for supplıes for the road, l would fınd everythıng ın these lıttle shops that would sometımes reach to the ceılıng ıncludıng my all tıme favourıte flavour of crısps. LEMON.

Our journey along the Caspıan sea whıch ıs the largest enclosed body of water on Earth as most of you wıll know was wıthout ıncıdent. We sometımes camped on the beaches whıch were dırty ıt has to be saıd but that dıdn't deter the holıdaymakers from Tehran. Iranıan fıshermen stıll fısh from the shore pullıng the nets ın by tractor! One mornıng we had an old local scare us a bıt as he was rıdıng along wıth hıs frıend on a motorbıke shootıng wıld dogs but sometımes a bıt close to the tent. They spread dısease and kıll the bırds whıch ıs very rıght l guess. Dorothee was havıng words wıth hım however. We were also ıntervıewed by a local journalıst ın Nowshahr and had to rıde three tımes round a roundabout for pıctures and a vıdeo! We were of course careful not to talk about polıtıcs! Somethıng Iranıans do all the tıme ıs pıcnıc and drınk cay whıch ıs tea. On the sıde of an autoroute, ın a fıeld wıth cows or on a dırty beach. Everywhere, as they wıll always have a thermos, a carpet to sıt on and a small stove ın the back of theır car. In a cıty bus a boy wıll be sat on a carpet next to the drıver makıng tea for hım. Outsıde most shops on the road, ıs a samovar contaınıng hot water for cay.

Now after that bus and traın journey we are ready to go agaın. The traın was easy enough for the baggage wıth someone else doıng most of the work but the journey was another matter. It was a sleeper traın but because we crossed the border we were woken up twıce to exıt Iran and then agaın to enter Turkey. I had a terrıble mıgraıne type headache when we had to exıt Iran and the queue was hell but Turkey was a lot easıer and my headache was gone. Exıtıng Iran was long as they woulden't let us back on the traın to sleep as the customs dıd a full check of the traın whıch took hours. Sleeper traın my bum. The bus was more or less the same as the other bus we have took. Not lettıng me put the bıkes ın and doıng theır best to damage them. Luckıly not thıs tıme but they get me all annoyed doıng ıt!

It ıs great to be back ın Turkey. I love Van. Beer agaın, tea houses wıth theır lıttle stools and tables on the pavement, kebabs, burek pastry, lamajun pizza, baklava, bath, baths, Mosques calling for prayer and music in the street. L I swear I could live here and the clear air of the mountains. Yesterday we did a tourist thing to see of the 10th century Armenian church on Akdamar Island in Lake Van, and then to see the famous Van cats that have different colored eyes and are of pure white color. Quite strange really.

Oceanne ıs on top form, always smiling and recıevıng Gifts of chocolate, sweets, biscuits and now of Medicine, Money! Note tiny amounts either. She gets pinched each cheek at all times as Iran and of now just as much, here ın Turkey. Takes ıt ın her strıde as l do myself now. We lıke ıt ınfact as the chıld ıs kıng ın thıs culture. She runs and runs everywhere, especıally ın the street and loves to be chased as we have to anyway! Now we wıll head East, fırstly by bıke wıth the rest by bus ın order to get to Istanbul where l wıll wrıte one more tıme.

All the best, Rupert

14,247 km's and 35 flats.

Jenna Haze And August

The Advent calendar is in the starting block, Father Christmas in gallery Carrefour's market and we will make ice castles at recess.

Let it be said, on December 18 we hold our Christmas party with Porcelain (FR) and Linnea Olsson (SWE). Suffice to say that this is the last night before going to see perfect turkey mom.

Linnea Olsson sent us five songs for an EP we hope to release this winter. She will play Friday, December 3 at Point Ephemeral with Nina Kinert . Pauline Bertrand and still working on the album Chaz Knapp . it takes time, ok, but it's very, very heavy and your patience will be rewarded in May with an evening ... haha I like mice corner. Otherwise, we agreed with Perdue Andrea for a new 5 songs EP. She recorded this winter with all his little band. We will in the provinces you kisses in February. Always

Andie, Planet Claire has posted the video of his appearance on air is here. Also online session of our friend Kinrisu by there. And frankly, we invite you to listen to her new album Lucent Animal Chimes . In

off, the site is almost finished, access paypal stuff. T-shirt? yeah well. It will be fireworks on launch day. And if you go in the side of Lilac Jeremy, there are 2 demos (5 titles) secret Jordan Irvin Dally sleeping and the same two pieces arranged by Chaz Jordan. It seems there are always lilac wine (like I'm going to listen to Jeff Buckley Lilac Wine me ...) Good

flakes.
We love you.

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Van - Turkey - Freedom of mind

Merhaba,

14158 kms en un peu moins de 14 mois de voyage. Dernier pays, la Turquie. Nous There are back and are very happy! I personally feel freer psychologically and physically without headscarves. The men say hello and I did not need to look down when I walk down the street to avoid eye contact with a man. We are now in Kurdistan, the region most likely to Muslim Turkey and yet it is very different from Iran. People are happy in the street. In short, I will discuss Iran again because I have to say. It is a country worth visiting. The men will appreciate even more!

Our approach end of travel. We have a flight to Istanbul on Dec. 20-Glasgow. Until then, we 7-10 days pedaling feel towards the sea, Adana likely to return later in Istanbul. Here are the mountains and winter. That is why we decided not to go to Armenia or Georgia. Since Rasht, on the Caspian Sea coast, we took a bus to Tabriz and then yesterday, a train before. Fatigue of travel, and yes, it happens ... we did not want to spend a second winter biking. Oceanne more than 3 years, has a great need to be with other children. It's time to go home.

We will of December 20 to 28 in the Rupert family in England. Then from December 28 to January 5 with my parents in Toulouse. This may be a first meeting point for those who are interested in going through the. Tell me, tell me! Then it will be a shift in Stuttgart with my friend Isabelle until 10 January.

We returned to Montreal Monday, January 10. We'd like to see you. We organize a ¨ pizza-beer ¨ (or non-alcoholic drink for Muslims, pregnant women and those who do not like alcohol) is from 17:30 with my friend Dominique in Villeray. We ask you to bring your drink and you order pizza! Despite all the fantastic hospitality we received throughout the trip, we did not take example. Oceanne will also be very happy to play with kids! They are therefore welcome. We are aware it earlier this week, but your portion need not be long. Just a little time to discuss with you all. Contact me me if you want the coordinates of Dominica. This will also allow me to have an idea of the number of people.

you soon!

Dorothee

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Iranian dreams and plans

Hi there, I wanted to

Share Our plans and expectations for this adventure of The End That has Given us as a family So Much and have people. We are "still very much 'On Our trip' As It Were Things Have Already Been to put in place for The Return To; The Normal Life! We Thought It Was When We Were getting cold still in Mashad waiting for o money and this was somewhat confirmed on the first couple of days biking when we had rain, cold nights in the tent and having to take refuge for the night in a restaurant as the rain and even stronger wind bashed against the windows. It wasn't fun and after last winter, we were not looking forward to dealing with it again especially with a young girl who needs to play outside. Then, it all changed. Sun, for ten days and more encounting. I hope it doesen't change as we're meant to be in the wettest region of Iran, the Caspian sea coast. We are currently in Nowshahr and will be heading towards Ramsar and Rasht tomorrow. Biking was expected to take less of an importance since Mashad but we kind of got a second wind after the money story and then the weather. It's never exactly easy with mountains and wind sometimes but neither is it hugely difficult. I realised that although our luggage is pushing 70 kg's each, the entire bike with trailer for each of us means the entire contraption that we pull is up to a 100 kg's each. This shows what a great machine the bicycle is and how anybody can get out and do this with a child or even two and just stop perhaps only thinking about it. Doesen't have to be a huge trip, doesen't have to be expensive either. Back to the plans, don't want to get too much into a role of expert because that is not the message.

After Rasht we will spend some time in Tabriz shopping and spending some time as tourists before heading into Turkish Kurdistan where we will bike our last kilometres hence closing the circle of our trip and route which will end up as Edinburgh to Beijing, from two ends! We will be really happy to finish our trip in Turkey and even more happy that we will be flying out of Istanbul as we all love that city. Infact, the country as a whole. The food, the people and the constant tea drinking. It's a bit like Iran without the chador and with beer if you like. I would describe Iran as vice-versa. Funnily enough l am not missing beer here. Treating it as a kind of cleansing operation after too much alcohol in China and Central Asia. We will therefore fly from Istanbul to Glasgow on the 20th of December after some relaxing and perhaps a party over what will probably be our last five days of the journey. Christmas in England and New Year in France before a return to Montreal and work and the future. First priority, a brother or sister for Oceanne! If anybody has plans to meet up in any of those places including Istanbul then please let me know, so that l can arrange things in advance. I am of course really excited to see any of you! I am also, l will warn you, expecting a beer or two, any drink infact, in exchange! I passed 14,000 km's ridden today pulling that weight l mentioned earlier so l am obviously in buoyant mood.

Much love, Rupert, Dorothee and Oceanne

20 Countries, 14,024 km's, 35 flats and 13 tyres